Alright. It's almost time for another trip up north, and you haaaave to take route 1 unless you have a time constraint. Or just don't feel like driving an extra 62 miles and 2 hours. But you should. From all the thousands of miles I have driven in Amerika, this is truly one of the most spectacular drives. From beginning to end, there is something for everyone, so lets start our journey!
The name "Big Sur" is derived from the original Spanish-language "el sur grande", meaning "the big south", or from "el país grande del sur", "the big country of the south".
10. Morro Bay / Morro Rock
Starting at the southern end of the drive, we see the "Gibraltar of the Pacific", beautiful and stunning Morro Rock.
From Wikipedia:
The rock was quarried on and off from 1889 to 1969, and provided material for the break water of Morro Bay and Port San Luis Harbor. In 1966, a new state law was adopted that transferred title to the State of California. In February 1968, the San Luis Obispo County Historical Society and the City of Morro Bay succeeded in having Morro Rock declared California Registered Historical Landmark number 821.
Morro Rock was first charted in 1542 by Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who called it El Morro, the Spanish geographical term for a crown-shaped rock or hill ("the pebble"). Since then, it has become an important landmark to sailors and travelers.
The Salinan and Chumash tribes considered Morro Rock to be a sacred site. The Chumash had an important nearby prehistoric settlement at least as early as the Milling Stone Horizon(6500-2000 B.C.E.), and the village was near the mouth of Morro Creek. Despite protests by the Chumash, Salinan tribe members also have exemption to legally climb Morro Rock for an annual ceremony celebrating the time in legend when hawk and raven destroyed the two-headed serpent-monster Taliyekatapelta, as he wrapped his body around the base of the rock.
The Rock, as locals call it, was previously surrounded by water. However, the northern channel's harbor was made from its sediment.
Morro Rock is the best known of the Nine Sisters of San Luis Obispo County, a series of ancient volcanic plugs that line the Los Osos Valley between the cities of Morro Bay and San Luis Obispo.9. Monterrey & Carmel
At the northern end of the drive, we find two charming towns. Carmel comes first if you are coming from the South. A small seaside community, great thing to do is the 17-mile-drive past ocean eroded rock and super fancy golf courses. Or you can view it all from the beach in Carmel.
Another great thing to do in the area is check out San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission! A beautiful site and superb reconstruction allow anyone to walk through times gone past. some of the only building remnants of the California Native Americans.
Monterrey Aquarium is sick, I love the kelp forest glass tank, Cannery Row is a nice place to take a stroll and think about John Steinbeck. There's just something about Monterrey that I have always loved!
8. Hearst Castle
Back on the Sur side of Big Sur, we find the glamorous abode of one William Randolph Hearst tuckered up on the hill. For many years as a minion I drove past and only caught vague glimpses. But I have now in fact gone up the hill, listened to the greeting history low down by Alex Trebek (?) and stared in awe at the beautiful tower and the facade of La Casa Grande. And I'm still a minion.
The man was not joking around when he built this castle. His dad had owned the Rancho San Simeon and it passed on to Willy when popps died. He said, "I've been staying on this property in tents since I can remember. I want to build a little something." He hired architect Julia Morgan and that "little something" turned into a lifelong obsession that literally was "unfinished" when he died. You got legit Roman column heads around the Neptune Pool. Largest collection of antique wooden ceilings in the U.S.
One of the tours you can go at night and dress up in period clothes and drink cocktails on the balconies. Worth a visit.
Also look for the ancestors of the zebra herd that has roamed the hills for the last 70 years.
7. Friends of the Elephant Seals
Can't do a top 10 list without mentioning these guys! Something out of a prehistoric gonzo movie, elephant seals are pretty incredible. Just up the road from the Rancho San Simeon, this pull off provides a great chance to stretch your legs and check out our evolutionary ancestors!
Did you know elephant seals are amongst the deepest divers of the seal world? They survive by living off of the plankton or whatever that is like 500m below sea level or some crazy shiz!
Sometimes the gals and chitlins are molting, kind of looks weird, but its OK, they're fine! Then the big males with the Gonzo noses come rollypolling out of the water and try and get some - she says "Yo I got a baby right here damn son I gotta head ache!"
6. Fernwood Campgrounds
Here we are, right in the heart of the town of Big Sur! This is the local watering hole / restaurant / cabin / campsite place right off rt 1. I found a nice spot for me tent along the Big Sur River, real nice spot. Will be returning soon.
5. Old Coast Road
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| Bixby Bridge, and the beach Jack Kerouac hung out on. The Old Coast Road is on the North Side of Bixby Canyon |
This is apparently where Lawrence Ferlinghetti's cabin where Jack Kerouac stayed and wrote the novel Big Sur. Tough times for Jacky Duluoz. But every time I cross Bixby Bridge I look for the "Alf the Sacred Burro"
4. Point Lobos State Reserve
"Best $10 you will ever spend." And it was. An amazing reserve filled with the beautiful Monterrey Cypress trees, all gnarly and windblown over the years. You can just imagine the storms these mothers have been through. Real nice trail, viewing of birds and poop on rocks, and nearby is the lone pine tree that Kim Novak and Jimmy Stewart kissed in front of in "Vertigo" !!
3. McWay Falls / Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
This state park is named after Julia Pfeiffer Burns, a well respected pioneer woman in the Big Sur country. The park stretches from the Big Sur coastline into nearby 3,000-foot ridges. It features redwood, tan oak, madrone, chaparral, and an 80-foot waterfall that drops from granite cliffs into the ocean from the Overlook Trail. A panoramic view of the ocean and miles of rugged coastline is available from the higher elevations along the trails east of Highway 1.
Even if you don't want to meander up the 1/2 mile trail through the redwoods and over McWay creek, or go under the PCH tunnel and take in the falls from the steps of what once was Julia Pfeiffer Burns' house, at LEAST pull over when you see the sign and get out and see if you can take in on of the most picturesque waterfalls on the Pacific Coast! Well worth a look!
2. Esalen Hot Springs
This is the place! Call ahead and make a ressie! 1am to 3am the public can access the hot springs flowing from deep inside the earth. Clothing is optional for the next half hour! Smells all sulfury, you sit in the tubs and listen to the roaring ocean crashing on rocks below. Don't know if it gets any better than that!
1. Nepenthe
Ah, Nepenthe. Once the love shack of Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth, bought by Lolly and Bill Fassett, once they had this incredible property, they said, "Hey, we can't keep this to ourselves!" And there has been a family run restaurant going on ever since! It is a truly incredible place to take in the view, check out the Phoenix drift wood and gift shop, or just stretch your legs and enjoy the view.
Did I mention the view?
Also, check out the movie the Sandpiper with Liz Taylor and Richard Burton! Such an epic film. What a pair those two!
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